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AUSTRALIAN OWNED & OPERATED

Licenced WaterMark Supplier

7 Stage Xstream Alkaline Reverse Osmosis Full Water Filter Replacement Pack (GT1-11XM)

PLEASE BE AWARE THIS IS A PREORDER. THE PRODUCTS WILL BE SHIPPED TO YOU ONCE THEY BECOME AVAILABLE. : ETA EARLY JULY 2024
SKU
GT1-11XM
$215.00
Quick Overview
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This Replacement Pack is for our discontinued 7-Stage Xstream Reverse Osmosis System.

Pack Includes:

  • Stage 1: 5 Micron Sediment Filter
  • Stage 2: 5 Micron Carbon Filter
  • Stage 3: Asprinn 50GPD Membrane
  • Stage 4: Xstream Alkalizer Cartridge
  • Stage 5: FAR In-fared Cartridge
  • Stage 6: Xstream Carbon Cartridge

 

Instructions for Changing your Filters at Home:

Recommended Tools Required:

  • Housing Opening Spanner (You should already have this as supplied with your system, but if not you can purchase one in the drop-down box in this listing).
  • A Shifter Wrench
  • Plumber's Thread Tape
  • A Membrane Opening Spanner (For the RO Membrane Only; you should already have this as supplied with your system, but if not you can purchase one in the drop-down box in this listing).
  • A Pair of Plyers (For the RO Membrane Only)

Before changing filters, we recommend taking a photo of the system from various angles, then one by one, changing the cartridges. This will help you remember the orientation and flow direction of the filters and will save you time as opposed to trying to put the filter back together from scratch.

  • Shutting off the water: There are 3 things you need to do in this step.

    • Firstly, locate your inlet tee valve which connects water to your system, and shut this off by turning the tap 90°.

    • Secondly, you will need to shut off the storage tank valve located on top of the storage tank.

    • Finally, to relieve pressure in the system, open the drinking water faucet tap on the sink.

  • Using Push-Fit Connections: These connections are very easy to use however if you have not used them before, they may be a little tricky at first. To remove the tubing, depress the floating collet, then pull on the tubing and it should release. When re-installing, you need to firmly push the tubing into the opening until you feel a “click” which signifies that the tubing has pushed through the internal O-ring and is seated correctly. If leaking occurs, it may be due to roughly cut tubing OR the tubing is not pushed in far enough.
  • Disconnecting the System: To make things easier, we recommend disconnecting the system and performing the filter change over the sink, rather than trying to do the filter change in a hard-to-reach place such as under the sink. We also recommend laying down some towels to mop up dripping water from the lines when you disconnect the system. The four points you need to disconnect are:

    • 1. The Storage Tank at point 12 (we recommend detaching this via the tee fitting connected to the T300 Hydrogen Rich Filter);

    • 2. The Inlet Water at point 4A (this should be disconnected at the inlet to the system ie. the elbow plugged into the Stage 1 Dirt/Sediment Filter);

    • 3. The Drain Line at point 10 (leave the Flow 200 Flow Restrictor connected to the RO membrane by the black tube in its original position), and finally;

    • 4. The Carbon Post-Filter at point 4C (disconnect tubing from the last inline carbon post-filter, which leads to the faucet tap).

      When this has been completed, you can then remove the system from under the sink and begin servicing it on the sink.


  • Changing The Pre-Filters (Stages 1 & 2): NOTE: the housings may be full of water so make sure you do this over the sink. When removing the bottom housings, you may find that they are very firmly tightened, so you may have some difficulty opening them, which is normal for water filter housings. We find the most effective way of removing the housings is to lay the system flat on its back and position the opening spanner around the housing. Using the ball of your hand, sharply and firmly hit the spanner (remember: lefty loosey) which will jolt the housing enough to break the suction seal of the O-Rings on the housing cap. Once the housing has come ajar, use the spanner or your hands to unscrew the housing completely. Remove the old cartridges and discard them (unfortunately they are not recyclable). If you would like to wash the housing out, we recommend using warm soapy water. Ensure you rinse thoroughly before re-installing the housings. If the o-rings require re-lubrication, use only a food-grade silicone-based lubricant, and only a small amount. When loading the new filter cartridges into the filter housing, unwrap them but ensure you handle the cartridges with minimal contact, especially the carbon filter (only handle these cartridges by the plastic end caps to prevent the carbon from absorbing residual odours or bacteria off your hands). When you go to do the housings back up, ensure they are in a vertical position, which will allow the filters to slot into the centre ports without damaging the inner port of the cartridges. Hand tightening is all that is required for the housings to seal correctly (see below). If you are unable to achieve a water-tight seal, you can use the opening handle to 'nip up' the last part, ensuring not to overtighten.

  • Changing the RO Membrane (Stage 3): You may wish to purchase a Membrane Opening Spanner to help with this, as membrane housings are notoriously hard to open (please note: there is no need to unscrew any of the push-fit fittings of the RO Membrane Housing)! Disconnect the tubing from the screw cap end of the membrane housing. Open the membrane housing by the end cap (as per the standard lefty loosey, righty tighty). Once you've opened the cap, pull out the RO membrane by grabbing onto the exposed stem (a pair of plyers will help with this, as it is incredibly hard to pull out the membrane with bare hands) and remove it with a pulling/wiggling/twisting motion. Discard the old membrane. Unwrap the new membrane (handle only by the stems) and push firmly to insert the new membrane into the opened housing with the o-ringed stem first, as per the below diagram. Finally, screw the RO Membrane Housing Cap back up and nip it up gently with the Membrane Opening Spanner to ensure there are no leaks, then plug in the tubing.
  • Changing the Inline Filters (Stages 4, 5 and/or 6): Inline filters are very quick and simple to replace, but you will require a spanner or shifter to remove and install the fittings. Disconnect the filter from the tubing on both ends and un-clip from the mounting brackets. To replace each inline filter, use a shifter/wrench to unscrew the fitting from the filter (focus on one filter at a time), and screw the fitting into the new cartridge, before re-inserting the tubing as per the original configuration. All push-fit fittings should come with an o-ring fitted to seal the push-fit connection. If you experience any leaks or cross-threading, the fitting may require replacement (you can purchase a set of replacement fittings within this listing). Alternatively (e.g. if the o-ring has deteriorated and/or you don't have a new fitting handy), you may use 6-8 rounds of plumber's thread tape to form a water-tight seal. Once you've finished changing the inline fittings, clamp on the filter and then re-connect the tubing.

  • Re-Connecting the System: Before re-installing the system double-check over your work to ensure all fittings are installed correctly and that all tubing is correctly aligned and firmly pushed in. Re-position the system under the sink and then re-connect the tubing (inlet water, storage tank, drain line, and faucet tap). Once you have plugged the system back in, ensure all tubing is in the correct place and pushed firmly into the fittings so that they don't leak.
  • Flushing: With the faucet still open, start by turning on your inlet water only (point 1), which will force water back into the system. You will likely hear some sputtering out the faucet tap while the system purges air. During this period, inspect the filter system and check for leaks. If you find a leak, shut off the water, address the issue and turn the water back on. The water will eventually begin to flow out the tap as a slow trickle, and may notice some black water, which is normal as the filters begin to flush. Once you feel the system has purged most of the air, close the faucet tap, turn the water storage tank on (point 14), then re-open the faucet on the sink and allow all the water to run down the sink, to flush the post filters and clear excess air from the system. Once the system has "run out" of water, turn off the faucet tap, allow the system to re-fill fully (1-2 hours), and empty the tank fully. Repeat this tank flushing process again. If you still have air (which will look like cloudy water but will settle) you may need to run one more tank full of water through the system and then it will be good to go.

    If you run into any issues during this process or would like some help, do not hesitate to give us a call or email us for assistance.

Return Policy

Due to the nature of the products we sell, a strict return policy is in place. We work with food grade certified materials that must be un-opened and un-used as to be able to be re-sold.

You may receive a refund or credit of equal amount, less the restocking fee if applicable and any other deductions that are relevant.

  • Wrongly purchased items may be returned for a merchandise credit, this applies for but not limited to: Wrong size, wrong system etc.
  • 30 Day return Policy: Returns will not be accepted without prior approval or after 30 days of invoice date.
  • All returns will incur a 17.5% restocking fee or cost to send the item to you whichever greater. FSA may use discretion to determine the restocking fee.
  • Any damages (minor, that can be repaired) will incur a fee which will be deducted from the total refund which will be equal to the cost of the replacement
    parts (List Price) and labour charge (if applicable) to repair the system(s). This will be separate to the restocking fee.
  • Any damage considered to be major and not feasible for repair may be refused and the return request will be void. The customer will be responsible for the return freight or disposal of the damaged unit.
  • Return shipping is to be paid by the buyer to the address provided. It is recommended that the customer applies transit warranty to the return freight in case of damage.
  • Any damages to the system that were not reported to FSA within 48 business hours of receipted delivery are not covered under our transit warranty.

  • Should the item appear faulty or doesn’t work how described, the unit/item must be returned for testing (if requested), the return postage paid by the buyer. If the unit/item is deemed to be faulty, compensation will be provided for the postage cost (Proof of cost required). If the unit/item is deemed to be in working order and as described, the buyer will responsible for return postage.

If you have any questions about our return policy, please contact us before purchase. This will also help to ensure you purchase the correct product that suits your requirements.