4 Stage Undersink Reverse Osmosis Water Filter System (GT1-26-4)
Australian WaterMark Certified RO System
Inlet Tee - Compliant to NSF/ANSI 61
Organic Minerals VS Inorganic Minerals In Water
Storage Tank Dimensions
INSTALLATION - Please note this system is WaterMark Certified to Australian plumbing standards (AS/NZS 3497), and will need to be installed by a licensed plumber. Simply order online with free shipping to your home, and once it arrives any local licensed plumber will be able to do the installation (the system also comes with instructions)!
How often should you change reverse osmosis water filters?
Filter Replacements & Maintenance Schedule
To maintain the optimum level of filtration year-round, and to ensure you get the maximum life out of your RO membrane (the engine room of this system), we strongly recommend a consistent filter maintenance schedule.
Pre-FiltersEvery 6 months you will need to change the pre-filters, which help protect and extend the life of the membrane. Some people neglect to keep up with the maintenance of the pre-filters, thinking that the RO membrane will take care of it! However, the RO membrane is the most delicate and expensive filter within any RO system, so it's worth protecting your investment!
The pre-filters thus serve the dual purpose of blocking sediment particles larger than 5 microns and removing chlorine, which both cause damage to the inside of the RO membrane in different ways:
- Sediment particles physically damage the fine internals, causing micro-tears that allow contaminants through to the "clean" side of the osmotic membrane, as well as blocking up the membrane which can cause the system to stop producing water and force an excessive amount of water to waste.
- Chlorine that has been dissolved in water creates corrosive hypochlorous and hydrochloric acids, which dissolve the delicate RO membrane (via a process called "ring chlorination" which disrupts the hydrogen bonding between the membrane's polymer matrix) and allows contaminants to pass through to the "clean side". Because this process occurs gradually over time, most people don't notice the taste of contamination until they change their membrane!
Reverse Osmosis Membranes*
Reverse Osmosis membranes filter down to an ultra-fine level of filtration - down to 0.0001 of a micron - which is the reason why RO membranes can filter out minerals, salts, and metals (unlike carbon). Because this level of filtration is so fine, RO membranes do eventually clog up over time. How long you will be able to get out of your RO membrane, depends on the consistency of your membrane pre-filter maintenance, along with the starting quality of your water.
Schematic diagram of the pores in a reverse osmosis membrane.
(Adapted from Geise, G.M., 2021, found in https://www.science.org/doi/10.1126/science.abe9741)
- HARD WATER (water that is full of salts and minerals) takes a bigger toll on RO membranes than water that is SOFT (water with a low Total Dissolved Solids rating).
- Western Australia, South Australia, the Northern Territory and Queensland tend to have hard water, along with those whose main source of water comes from a bore.
- Thus, whilst we have specified a recommended maintenance schedule (below), the quality of the water in the area you live, is ultimately what will determine how long you get out of your RO membrane.
- *If you are on hard water, at the 2-year mark, simply go for the FULL Replacement Pack (which includes an RO Membrane). Note - cases of extremely hard water may get less than 2 years out of an RO membrane.
This is the filter that goes after the RO membrane to "perfect" the water for final consumption. Over the course of a year, the carbon post-filter will eventually exhaust its capacity to adsorb residuals.
Please see the Recommended Filter Replacement Schedules (per the above) and links to the replacement filters:
HARD WATER - Recommended Filter Replacement Schedule*
- Every 6 Months - Pre-Filter Replacement Pack
- Year 1 - Pre- and Post-Filter Replacement Pack
- Year 2 - FULL Replacement Pack - Pre- and Post-Filters + Reverse Osmosis Membrane*
MODERATE/SOFT WATER - Recommended Filter Replacement Schedule*
- Every 6 Months - Pre-Filter Replacement Pack
- Year 1 - Pre- and Post-Filter Replacement Pack
- Year 2 - Pre- and Post-Filter Replacement Pack
- Year 3 - Pre- and Post-Filter Replacement Pack
- Year 4 - FULL Replacement Pack - Pre- and Post-Filters + Reverse Osmosis Membrane*
***IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT WATER SANITATION FOR RAIN/BORE WATER SOURCES***
PLEASE NOTE: REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEMS PERFORM OPTIMALLY ON CHLORINATED (MAINS/TOWN) WATER, AS THE PRESENCE OF CHLORINE KILLS THE BACTERIA/FUNGI/YEAST. THEREFORE, REGULAR & CONSISTENT WATER DISINFECTION IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED FOR RAIN/TANK/POTABLE BORE WATER* SOURCES PRIOR TO USING A REVERSE OSMOSIS FILTER SYSTEM. FAILURE TO ADEQUATELY DISINFECT THE WATER WILL RESULT IN BIOFOULING OF THE RO MEMBRANE (I.E. A BACTERIA/FUNGUS/SLIME COLONY WILL START GROWING INSIDE THE MEMBRANE WHICH WILL PUTREFY YOUR FILTER SYSTEM & RENDER THE RO MEMBRANE UNSALVAGEABLE).
For Protection Against Bacteria/Fungi/Yeast
Bacteria (such as E.Coli) can colonize in the stagnant water and result in harmful illnesses when consumed. For sanitation against common water-borne bacteria/viruses in rainwater and potable bore water*, we, therefore, recommend dosing your tank with a product such as Hydrosil Ultra 7.5% Water Sanitiser to ensure protection against microbiological contamination/biofouling in your pipework and/or filter system.
HydroSil is a food-grade silver-activated, hydrogen-peroxide based water sanitiser, which acts to oxidise bacteria and viruses, without leaving any dangerous residues behind. HydroSil sanitizes and protects your tanks and water storage devices, making rainwater and potable bore water safe and suitable for human consumption. HydroSil is not a chlorine-based chemical like most sterilisers on the market today. It is non-toxic, and safe to use around your home and family.
Dosage Rate: HydroSil should be dosed at a rate of 200mL per 1000L of water. To scale down to tank size, you will require 20mL per 100L.
Buy Hydrosil Ultra 7.5% Here:
About Rain Water
Australia is the world’s driest inhabited continent, and an astonishing 10% of Aussies don’t have access to a mains water supply, so it’s no wonder why rainwater and bore storage tanks are so popular in rural areas to save water during drought and for household use all year round in cooking, cleaning, gardening, bathing and sometimes even drinking. However, whilst many people enjoy the sweet taste of rain and spring water, and some even swear by the ‘raw water’ trend (which proponents (sometimes falsely) believe has more minerals and fewer contaminants than regular chlorinated town water), we cannot stress enough that drinking untreated water is a very bad idea!
Scarily, in Australia, the general public perception is that rainwater is pure, clean, and safe to drink, but according to the Australian Environmental Health committee’s Guidance of the Use of Rainwater tanks, the fact is that the microbial quality of tank-collected rainwater is typically worse than regular urban tap water, and not to mention, the chemical quality of rainwater can be negatively impacted for those living near heavy industry or in areas with heavy traffic emissions. For example, rainwater samples in Port Pirie, South Australia, (which has one of the world’s largest lead smelters), have been found to contain levels of lead that exceed Australian Drinking Water Guidelines by up to ten times! Even bushfire can contaminate rainwater! And that’s not to mention the microbiologically sickening soup of bacteria, viruses parasites that inevitably make their way into your tank from disease-spreading insects such as mosquitoes, the excrement and decaying carcasses of frogs, snakes, rodents, and possums that commonly live in and around tanks, and the droppings from bats and birds flying overhead! Also consider that bacteria tend to proliferate in moist and warm environments, meaning that warmer weather, in particular, has the tendency to turn your tank into a putrified bacterial breeding ground. Thus, whilst rainwater may smell odourless, taste great, and look clean and clear to the naked eye, with the human senses alone, you simply cannot tell what potentially harmful microscopic contaminants could be lurking in your tank water (even after filtering the water with carbon) – and you certainly don’t want to be drinking it!
Alternatively, check out the specially designed High Performance | Weatherproof Twin Filter + UV Whole House Water Sanitation System (HPF-UV):
About Bore Water
Bore water will always require filtration, as whilst you would think it is “naturally purified” to some extent as the water seeps through the aquifer via various layers of bedrock, this water is highly susceptible to contamination by bacteria, viruses, parasites (see: Brain-Eating Parasites), sewerage (think human excrement, cleaning and bathing products), chemicals, fertilisers, pesticides, minerals, heavy metals (such as lead, zinc, chromium, copper, cadmium, arsenic and nickel), and sometimes even radioactive elements (such as uranium) from both natural sources and human activity. As with rainwater treatment, the most cost-effective solution is typically to use 5 Micron Carbon Filtration in combination with UV Sterilisation to ensure 99.9% eradication of all parasites, bacteria, viruses. However, this system is not always a "total fix", as bore water chemistry is incredibly complex, and sometimes may not even be treatable. Yet another common misconception we often encounter is that carbon can filter out anything and everything – but unfortunately, carbon doesn’t kill bacteria or remove minerals, salts and other such dissolved inorganic substances!
We STRONGLY recommend that you get your bore water tested to determine if there are any underlying issues in the water chemistry of your bore, before you make any purchases or try to filter it. If you have not had your water tested yet and would like to get this done, please contact us to have your bore water analysed.
Due to the nature of the products we sell, a strict return policy is in place. We work with food grade certified materials that must be un-opened and un-used as to be able to be re-sold.
You may receive a refund or credit of equal amount, less the restocking fee if applicable and any other deductions that are relevant.
- Wrongly purchased items may be returned for a merchandise credit, this applies for but not limited to: Wrong size, wrong system etc.
- 30 Day return Policy: Returns will not be accepted without prior approval or after 30 days of invoice date.
- All returns will incur a 17.5% restocking fee or cost to send the item to you whichever greater. FSA may use discretion to determine the restocking fee.
- Any damages (minor, that can be repaired) will incur a fee which will be deducted from the total refund which will be equal to the cost of the replacement
parts (List Price) and labour charge (if applicable) to repair the system(s). This will be separate to the restocking fee.
- Any damage considered to be major and not feasible for repair may be refused and the return request will be void. The customer will be responsible for the return freight or disposal of the damaged unit.
- Return shipping is to be paid by the buyer to the address provided. It is recommended that the customer applies transit warranty to the return freight in case of damage.
- Any damages to the system that were not reported to FSA within 48 business hours of receipted delivery are not covered under our transit warranty.
- Should the item appear faulty or doesn’t work how described, the unit/item must be returned for testing (if requested), the return postage paid by the buyer. If the unit/item is deemed to be faulty, compensation will be provided for the postage cost (Proof of cost required). If the unit/item is deemed to be in working order and as described, the buyer will responsible for return postage.
If you have any questions about our return policy, please contact us before purchase. This will also help to ensure you purchase the correct product that suits your requirements.
Why is the storage tank necessary?
Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration is a slow process where water is forced under pressure, through a membrane wall at 0.0001 Microns. This process cuts the water production back to anywhere between 8 and 10 Litres per hour. The Reverse Osmosis Storage Tank is used to store this filtered water so that when you open up the tap on the sink, you have water on demand for drinking.
What happens when the storage tank is full?
When the storage tank reaches capacity, it triggers a backflow shut off valve located on the back of the system. This valve actively shuts off the incoming water (from the mains inlet). When you then open the tap on the sink, the storage tank will evacuate the pre-filtered water. The shut off valve will then disengage and begin to top up the tank to capacity once more.
How often do I need to change the filters?
As a general rule with RO systems, the first 2 filters (Or pre-Filter) should be replaced strictly every 6 months. This is highly recommended to help prolong the life of the more expensive and important Reverse Osmosis Membrane. If a pre filter is left on for too long, as the efficiency of chemical reduction is reduced, it may begin to let through residual traces of Chlorine through to the membrane. The Reverse Osmosis membrane is susceptible to damage from any number of chemicals that it comes into contact with, thus would begin to deteriorate more rapidly, potentially causing you to replace your membrane prematurely. Undersink models can have varying configurations but on average, all post membrane filters should be changed every 1-2 years.
What is filter protection equipment, and do I need to use it?
Filter Protection Equipment is an important part of water filtration. Our products are sourced from experienced and reliable manufacturers and also carry the highest level of certification in the water filtration industry. Regardless of Brand, Make, Model or Country of manufacture, water filtration will ALWAYS be the weakest point in your plumbing. The three main causes of water filtration failure are; Overnight pressure surges, Intense Water Hammer Pressure Impacts, and thermal expansion. All of which can be addressed and prevented with a few simple pieces of equipment. A Pressure Limiting Valve is used to buffer the incoming pressure to the Australian Regulation Pressure of 500kPA. This is the minimum requirement for most insurance and warranty validation and is essential when used on Town mains / municipal water. A Water Hammer Arrestor is a copper tube looking device which is commonly found in the laundry (If you have one). It acts to absorb and dissipate pressure spikes in your water lines. Pressure spikes occur from appliances such as the washing machine or dishwasher and can magnify the water pressure tenfold which can cause serious damage to water filtration components. Water hammer gets the name by the distinct sound you hear when the shockwaves rattle loose copper pipes or worn out valves. This is something that is essential to be addressed immediately before installing water filtration. A Pressure Relief Valve is as it sounds. It is pre-set to open once the pressure reaches 110PSI, shooting that pressure/water down the drain line and easing the pressure in your water filter. This is a requirement if you intend to hook up your water filter to a fridge, chiller or ice maker. They are also a good idea to help relieve residual pressure from pressure surges (even if you have a PLV + water hammer arrestor).
What is re-mineralising and is it necessary?
Re-Mineralising or Alkalising are common terms you will hear when reading about Reverse Osmosis. Many sellers will provide you with a song and dance using big words and sales pitches to the point when “you don’t know what it does, but it sounds good”. To put it all into simple terms; The act of re-mineralising or alkalising is simply Raising the pH from an acidic state to a neutral or alkaline state. This is achieved by using a calcite or magnesium based media filter that slowly dissolves trace amounts of inorganics into the water to raise the pH so that it is suitable and recommended for drinking.
Can I install my Water Filter on my own or do I need a Plumber?
For quality assurance and Insurance reasons, we always recommend using a licenced plumber who is familiar with water filtration. This ensures that the installation runs smoothly and is professional. If you fancy yourself reasonable at DIY type projects, we provide you with all the necessary components and instructions you need to conduct the installation yourself. Our technical support team are contactable during business hours on 1300 888 008 should you have any queries about installation.